Gettin' Spicy

One of the things I love most about urban living is the bodega, that little corner store that has a just a little bit of everything in it.

There are about four within walking distance of my apartment, and each one has it's own distinct character.  There's the Italian grocery with oodles of pastas, grains, and pickled salads; the predominantly Eastern European store offering up strange cuts of meats and curious packages with lots of "K"s and "W"s on the labels.  And two Mexican bodegas with a host of fresh produce and spices galore.

Feeling adventurous, I trotted on over to the rack filled with dried chiles in cellophane bags with red, white, and green labels, and I grabbed two: chiles de árbol and cascabel chiles.  Chiles de árbol are basically a substitute for cayenne, small and spicy.  Cascabels are gorgeous, chocolate brown little bundles of smoky, lightly spicy love.  I figured the combination of the two would make for an amazing backbone for some hearty, winter dishes.

Here's what I came up with.

*You can find these chiles in most grocery stores.  Look for them in the produce section (on that strange rotating rack of bagged spices that you never look at) or near the end of the Mexican aisle!


Cascabel Spiced Eggplant and Zucchini with Wilted Kale

The warm, earthy notes of the cascabel chiles mixed with the slight heat of the chiles de árbol are perfect on a cold winter's night!

1 medium eggplant, diced into 3/4" cubes
2 zucchini, diced into 3/4" cubes
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic
3 cups kale, stemmed
1 15oz can fire roasted tomatoes, coarsely chopped
5 dried cascabel chiles
3 dried chiles de árbol
1 cup boiling water
1/4 cup Roasted Veggie Stock
1/2 tsp cinnamon
2 tsp cumin
2 Tbl olive oil

Place cascabel and chiles de árbol in a bowl and cover with boiling water.  Set aside for 10 minutes.

While the chiles steep, heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add onions and saute until translucent, about 5 minutes.  Add garlic, cumin, and cinnamon, stir to coat onions, and cook for 1 minute.  Add eggplant and zucchini, and saute until veggies begin to brown but still have some bite to them, about 7-10 minutes.

While veggies cook, drain the softened chiles reserving the liquid.  Place chiles in a food processor or blender with one half of the liquid.  Puree until smooth.

Once the veggies have browned a bit, stir in tomatoes, the chile puree, and the remainder of the steeping liquid.  Simmer for about 10-12 minutes, reducing the liquid.  Add kale and veggie stock, stirring until just wilted.

Serve over rice, grains, pasta, or large pieces of grilled bread rubbed with garlic.

Terrine Terrain

As you might suspect, I love Thanksgiving.

It's a holiday that is a celebration of food, family, and...er...football.  While I don't necessarily care about the latter, although I have been known to jump into a friendly Turkey Bowl competition with friends, the thing that tugs on my heart strings most is having the opportunity to give thanks for loved ones near and far and to eat some deliciousness.  And to spend the day cooking, drinking, and laughing with a glorious bunch of fools I call "family."

I have always thought that preparing a meal has more to do with self-expression and love than sustenance. As my former professor at Northwestern, Dwight Conquergood, so wisely spoke, "Food is not feed." It tells a story of who we are, where we come from, and brings communities together. 

Folks are usually obsessed about The Bird on the big day.  But what about the other, veggie friendly contributions to the feast?  It takes a village, no?  Our table is filled with roasted Brussels sprouts, braised turnip greens with apples, mushrooms, peas, and sweet potatoes (without the marshmallow, thank you very much).  There are a host of dishes that capture the flavors of the season and are still healthy!

So, if you are headed off to a potluck Thanksgiving (or hosting one yourself), might I suggest bringing along some Pomegranate Couscous with Grilled Eggplant and Kale or Farro with Butternut Squash, Apples, and Dried Cranberries. 

Or, if you have the mind, take some time to assemble this delicious terrine.

Grilled Vegetable Terrine

This is a total showstopper and is surprisingly easy to make.  Yes, there are many steps, but you are basically layering veggies in a pan and turning it upside down!  Your friends don't have to know and you receive the accolades from serving this beautiful dish!

1 large eggplant, cut into 1/4" rounds
2 large zucchini. cut lengthwise into 1/4" strips
1 red pepper
2 yellow peppers
1/2 cup quinoa, cooked
16 oz frozen spinach, thawed
3 cloves garlic
1 cup sun-dried tomatoes
1/2 cup almonds
1 cup basil leaves
2 Tbl balsamic vinegar
2 tsp tahini
Walnut and Fig Pâté (recipe follows)
4 Tbl olive oil (divided)

Char peppers directly on gas burners, turning frequently until completely blackened (or roast in a 450 degree oven for approximately 30 minutes until charred).  Place peppers in a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap.  Set aside.  Once cool enough to handle, remove core, seeds, and skin and slice into 1/2" wide strips.

Squeeze thawed spinach in a dish towel to remove as much of the liquid as possible.  Heat 1 Tbl olive oil with one one clove of garlic smashed.  Once garlic has browned, discard and quickly saute spinach in garlic oil for 1-2 minutes, until aromatic but still a vibrant green.  Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool.

On a grill pan over high heat, grill zucchini and eggplant slices in batches.  Lightly season with salt and pepper.  Set aside.

In a food processor, puree sun-dried tomatoes, almonds, basil, and balsamic vinegar.  With the motor running, drizzle in remaining 3 Tbl olive oil.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

In a small bowl, combine cooked quinoa, tahini, and 1/4 of the cooked spinach.

Now we're ready to get down to business.  Line a 9 x 5 loaf pan with plastic wrap, allowing for at least 4" overhang.  Of the remaining spinach, gently press 2/3 onto the four edges of the pan.  Place eggplant in a single layer on the bottom and cover with half of the pesto.  Layer on zucchini slices and cover with mushroom pȃté. Layer in peppers and spread over quinoa mixture.  Add another layer of eggplant, pesto, and zucchini.  Cover with remaining spinach.  Fold excess plastic over terrine.  Cut a piece of cardboard to fit snugly inside the rim of the pan.  Place a couple of cans on top to weigh it down and refrigerate over night.  Unwrap plastic wrap and invert on a serving platter.

Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.


Mushroom, Walnut, and Fig Pâté

This earthy spread is as delicious as it is versatile.  Spread it on dark bread toast point with some arugula as an appetizer, thin it out with roasted vegetable stock for a hearty pasta sauce, or spread it on sandwiches with roasted veggies.

8 oz crimini mushrooms, sliced
2 medium shallots, chopped
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted
1/4 cup dried black mission figs, sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup cognac
thyme bundle
3 Tbl olive oil, divided

Heat 1 Tbl olive oil over medium flame and saute shallots until translucent, about three minutes.  Add garlic and cook for one additional minute.  Add mushrooms, thyme, and bay leaf and saute until browned, about five to seven minutes.  Season with salt and pepper.

While mushrooms brown, toast walnuts in a dry saute pan until aromatic.  Add walnuts and figs to mushrooms, and cook for two to three minutes.  Add cognac and cook until the cognac is completely evaporated.  Remove from heat, and discard herbs.

Pulse mixture in a food processor while drizzling in just enough oil to provide some moisture.  Mixture should be smooth but still slightly chunky.  Allow pâté to come to room temperature before serving.  Keeps in refrigerator covered for three days.

My name is Scott and I am a snackaholic.  I can go through a bag of chips faster than you can say, "Ruffles."  And if they are covered in some sort of exotically flavored powder, I'm done for.  Sweet Maui Onion, Wasabi and Mustard,  or good old fashioned Sour Cream and Onions...I like salty snack treats that taste like other things.

As I have turned over a new leaf, I no longer buy those delicious (yet completely fat and sodium laden) treats.  But, I still like to snack.  So nowadays, I bust out my trusty grill pan and make some grilled and marinated veggies to snack on.  I first encountered this method while working at Bari Ristorante e Enoteca in Memphis, TN. The process is a little time consuming but well worth the work. These bad lads are great on an antipasti plate, in a pannini, or thrown into a spinach salad, couscous, or a chilled pasta salad.  Or just about anything!

Personally, I love making flatbread pizzas with them. Play around with different vegetables and herbs, like peppers, thinly sliced carrots, and spring onions.



Grilled and Marinated Zucchini and Eggplant






This is a method; you decide the quantity.
Zucchini 
Eggplant
Garlic, thinly sliced
Capers, drained
Basil, finely chopped (or oregano, mint, or parsley)
Olive oil
Salt/Pepper

Preheat a grill pan over medium high heat. Using a mandolin, slice zucchini length wise in thin, ¼” strips. In batches, grill zucchini until grill marks just barely become visible through the side remaining up (about 3 minutes). Flip and grill for another minute. Set aside to cool.


In a flat container, create one even layer of vegetables. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper. Add a few slivers of garlic, a few capers, and basil. Drizzle with oil. Continue to layer until all of the vegetables have been treated. Cover and refrigerate, allowing the vegetables to marinate for at least 3 hours.

Repeat process with eggplant substituting oregano or mint for the basil.


The key to this is moderation. Don’t go too crazy!

Makings for a great pannini:  zucchini, eggplant, peppers, and arugula with homemade pesto.

If you have a pannini press, schmear just a little bit of pesto on the bread and stack your veggies up for some sandwichy goodness.  If you don't have a pannini press, use your grill pan and weight down the sandwich with a cast iron skillet.

Basil Pesto


I know this isn't vegan, but it sure is tasty.




3 cups loosely packed basil
5 cloves garlic
¼ cup almonds
1 lemon, zest and juice
¼ cup parmesan cheese
¾ cup olive oil

In a small food processor, combine garlic and almonds with a little bit of salt and whir away until they form a paste.  Scrape down the sides and add basil, zest and juice. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the cheese. Store in an airtight container with a layer of olive oil on top (this helps it retain its vibrant green color).

A Psychological Problem

I have a psychological problem.

My friends would tell you I have many, however, the one that I most readily fess up to is the fact that I cannot stand an empty refrigerator.  I have a mini panic attack if I open up that fridge and it isn't just teeming with tasty vittles.  It's bad. 

So, when J and I returned from three weeks in San Francisco, I was downright giddy with anticipation for my inevitable trip to the grocery store.  And I went nutso.  I shopped with the wild abandon and unstoppable voracity of that baby gorilla in the trailer for that new Planet of the Apes movie, only not quite as homicidal.  Fresh fruit and produce, sausages and ground turkey, fizzy water and organic juices.  You name it and it went in the basket.  I drove home that day, trunk overflowing with grocery goodness, filled with the smug satisfaction of knowing that Mama was gonna be eatin' gooood for a while.

Then I realized that we would be leaving again in a week.

I have enough food to feed a third world nation. 

Crap.

Over the next week, I did my best to feed the world (or at least a couple of friends) and had worked through most of the perishables.  Good job, me.  And then last night, I saw them.  Staring at me from the crisper drawer.  Those damn zucchinis.

What to do, what to do...

You work with what ya got, and you make soup!

This soup is great on its own or as a starter for a light summer meal.

Chilled Zucchini Soup with Lemongrass and Basil

Fresh lemongrass can be easily found in Asian food markets.  If you can't find it, you can use a prepared lemongrass paste (but those usually contain eeeevil corn syrup).

3 medium zucchinis, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
3 stalks lemongrass
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 cup loosely packed basil leaves, plus 1/4 cup chiffonade
2 cups chicken stock
3 cups water
1/2 cup low fat Greek yogurt
2 Tbl olive oil

In a large stock pot, cook onions for about five minutes in olive oil until they become translucent.  While onions are working, cut off the ends of the lemongrass stalks and whack the stalks with the back of your knife.  This releases the oils.  Add lemongrass and garlic to the pot and cook for about 1 minute, stirring occasionally.

To prepare the zucchini, slice off ends and make a cut down the center lengthwise.  Slice each half into 1/2" half moons.  Add to the pot and season with salt and pepper.  Allow the vegetables to cook until softened, about 7 minutes.  Add water and stock.  Bring to a boil.

Once it comes to a boil, reduce the heat and add 1 cup of basil leaves.  Simmer for 5 minutes and remove from heat.  Using a pair of tongs, fish out and discard lemongrass stalks.  They have fulfilled their destiny.  Puree the mixture with a hand mixer until smooth.  Pass soup through a sieve into a bowl, discarding solids.  Add yogurt and puree entire mixture once more to smooth out the soup.  Allow to cool and refrigerate until completely chilled (at least 1 1/2 hours).

Ladle into bowls and garnish with a generous sprinkling of reserved basil leaves.

So I told her what she could do with her zucchini...

I had a "feeling famous" moment.

Yesterday, I received my first email question!  The moment was thrilling.  Reader mail!

I had visions of Oprah-esque magnitude. Dressed in age-appropriate casual chic-ness, trying not to give you my profile lest I should disappear from view (I would be skinny Oprah in this moment), and gazing directly into Camera One, I would address you, my best friend, saying, "Melinda from College Park, PA writes, 'I have a challenge for The Improvised Chef's Three Way.'"

I bet you do.  And you know I love a challenge.

"'It's probably an easy one, but I'm not that creative in the kitchen."

Stop.  Don't say that!

"My co-worker brought me a zucchini - a HUGE zucchini - and we have to figure out what to do with it so it doesn't go bad.  Any ideas?"

Well, Melinda in College Park, since this is a family show I am going to refrain from calling this Scott's Three Way with a Huge Zucchini.  It simply begs a law suit.  Instead I will make some small talk about how now is the time of year when zucchini seems to be taking over your garden like Audrey II, and, blithely and benignly, I will tell you exactly what you can do with that huge zucchini.

There is a ton of stuff you can do with America's favorite gourd.  As stated earlier, I love to grill and marinate the suckers.  It makes for great snackin' and impresses people on an antipasti plate.  (For the recipe, see Confession post).  My mom used to make zucchini bread which tasted like love in loaf form(and if she was at home instead of selfishly going on vacation I would post her recipe).  Throw it into a chilled soup with potatoes for a veggie summer supper, add fresh zucch to a salad with garbanzos, artichokes, hearts of palm and olives for a little Mediterranean feel, or you could make zucchini pancakes.

Chilled Zucchini and Potato Soup

For a vegetarian option, omit the stock and use water.  Whenever I use veggie stock in soup, it tends to take on a general vegetable flavor instead of focusing on the star veg.

2 Tbl olive oil
1 1/2 pounds zucchini, trimmed and chopped
1 medium yellow onion
1 clove garlic
1/2 cup white wine
1 medium Yukon gold potato, chopped
2-3 sprigs fresh thyme (string 'em up)
4 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 Tbl lemon zest
salt/pepper

In a large stock pot, heat olive oil and add onions.  Cook until tender, about 5 minutes.  Add garlic, thyme, potato and zucchini.  Cook for another 5-7 minutes until veggies are tender.  Add wine.  Once wine has reduced to half, add chicken stock and bring to a boil.  Turn down heat and simmer for 20 minutes until potato cubes are fork tender.  Remove from heat and take out thyme sprigs.

Using an immersion blender or working in batches with a food processor, whir that sucker until smooth.  Stir in cream and lemon zest.  Salt and pepper to taste.  Chill that bad lad until completely cool.

Sauteed Zucchini with Lemon over Penne

Contrary to my beliefs, not everything has to be a big production.  This is one of those KISS recipes (Keep It Simple, Stupid).  Easy, tasty and satisfying.

2 Tbl olive oil
1 1/2 lbs zucchini, trimmed and cut diagonally into 1/2" slices - it's prettier this way
Zest and Juice of 1 lemon
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1/2 cup fresh basil, chopped
1 pound penne
1/2 cup shaved asiago or pecorino cheese
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts (optional)
1 tsp red pepper flakes

Bring a large stock pot of salted water to a boil.  Once we have bubbles, add in the pasta and cook for roughly 7 minutes.

Once you have dropped the pasta, heat oil, garlic, and red pepper over medium high heat.  In a single layer, add zucchini to pan.  Cook until golden brown, about 4 minutes.  Flip zucchini to brown other side, about an additional 3 minutes. At the last minute, add lemon juice, zest and basil.  Toss to coat.

By this time your pasta should be ready to drain.  So drain it and return it back to the pot. Drizzle in a little olive oil and throw in that cheese.  Give it a stir. 

To serve, place cheesy pasta on plate and top with the lemony, basily zucchini and pine nuts.

Zucchini Pancakes

These babies are yummy and totally cheap eats.  Combine lemon juice, yogurt (or sour cream), and whatever fresh herbs you have laying around to make a nice little dippin' suace for them.

1 HUGE zucchini
2 carrots
1/2 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 eggs
4 Tbl. flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 cup grated parmesan or asiago
1 tsp fresh tarragon, chopped
1 tsp fresh basil, chopped
1 tsp fresh parsley, chopped
salt n' pepper

Using a box grater, grate zucchini and carrots.  Transfer to a clean towel and squeeze out all moisture.  Imagine a particularly frustrating child's neck as you wring.  I do.  Place in a bowl with onions and garlic.

In a small bowl, beat eggs and add to veggies.  In yet another bowl (we certainly are using a lot of bowls), combine flour, baking powder, cheese, salt 'n pepper, and herbs.  Add to eggy vegetables and give it a good stir to combine.

In a non-stick pan, heat up canola oil until very hot.  Spoon in mixture, creating "silver dollar" pancakes and cook until crisp.  Flip 'em and do the same.  Drain excess oil on paper towels.

Confession: A Pinch of Fresh Herbs

“Well, I do declare!”

One hears this phrase and instantly an image appears: a banana curled, corseted, hoop skirted Southern belle sitting on the lanai of her antebellum plantation fanning herself while sipping mint juleps and talking about the lahf-stahyle to which she has become acc-uh-stomed.

While this particular chromosomally challenged, Foghorn Leghorn/Scarlett O’Hara hybrid exists only in my head, it is true that Southerners, as a rule, are a declarative people. Whatever is stated is done so with the fervent passion of one speaking gospel…even if the speaker changes their mind within the duration of the conversation.

My dear friend, CSGPW, is one such declaration spewing Southerner. She is an incredibly talented actor, director, and writer. A gifted storyteller (ask her to tell you about that damn monkey, Jinx) and self-proclaimed rock star, she will tell it like it is or how it should be without a hint of hyperbole, irony, or doubt in her voice. Her porch is the location for the weekly tent revival/hippie love-in/food orgy of trashy, yet delicious, dips and random potlucky goodness attended by a dear circle of friends. It is here we talk, laugh, eat, and drink, and, as we move into a food induced rhapsodic state, we gleefully wait for the evening’s words of wisdom to come forth from the mouth of our hostess.

“Life is too short to suffer through mediocre theatre!”
Here, here!

“There ain’t nothing worse than hearing the tsseeee tsseeee of a gah’ tam skeeter buzzin’ around your ear in the middle of the night!”

Amen, sister!

“Nothing pisses me off more than having to pay for fresh herbs in the summer.”
I totally agree.

Nothing pisses me off more than having to pay for fresh herbs in the summer, too!

That’s why, this morning, I snuck into your garden and raided your herbs.

I promise to make you dinner.


Chilled Summer Squash Soup with Lemongrass and Thyme

4-5 lbs yellow squash, halved and chopped
2 yellow onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
4 stalks lemongrass
Small bundle of thyme, about 6-7 sprigs
6 cups chicken stock
1 lemon, zest and juice
1/3 cup Greek yogurt
2 Tbl olive oil
Heat oil in a stock pot over medium heat. Add onions and cook until tender but not browned (roughly 5-7 minutes). While onions sweat, remove ends of lemongrass stalks. With the back of your knife, give those stalks a good whack to release oils. Once onions are tender, add garlic and sauté for one minute. Add squash and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add lemongrass and thyme. Cook for 1-2 minutes. Add stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for ten minutes. Remove from heat.

Fish out lemongrass stalks and thyme. Working in batches in a blender or using an immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth. In batches, pass soup through a sieve, using the back of a ladle to help things along. Thoroughly mix in zest, juice, and yogurt. Salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until completely chilled.

Basil Pesto

2 cups loosely packed basil
5 cloves garlic
¼ cup walnuts
1 lemon, zest and juice
¼ cup parmesan cheese
¾ cup olive oil

In a small food processor, combine basil, garlic, walnuts, and lemon zest. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the cheese. Store in an airtight container with a layer of olive oil on top.


Grilled and Marinated Zucchini

I first encountered this method while working at Bari Ristorante e Enoteca in Memphis, TN. The process is a little time consuming but well worth the work. These bad lads are great on an antipasti plate with a variety of cured meats and cheeses or thrown into a salad or couscous. Play around with different vegetables and herbs.

This is a method; you decide the quantity.
Zucchini Eggplant
Garlic, thinly sliced Oregano (or Mint)
Capers, drained
Basil, finely chopped
Olive oil
Salt/Pepper

Preheat a grill pan over medium high heat. Using a mandolin, slice zucchini length wise in thin, ¼” strips. In batches, grill zucchini until grill marks just barely become visible through the side remaining up (about 3 minutes). Flip and grill for another minute. Set aside to cool.

In a flat container, create one even layer of vegetables. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper. Add a few slivers of garlic, a few capers, and basil. Drizzle with oil. Continue to layer until all of the vegetables have been treated. Cover and refrigerate, allowing the vegetables to marinate for at least 3 hours.

Repeat process with eggplant substituting oregano or mint for the basil.

The key to this is moderation. Don’t go too crazy!

Lemon Herb Vinaigrette

1 shallot
1 clove garlic
1Tbl fresh parsley
1 Tbl fresh basil
1 tsp fresh thyme
1 tsp fresh tarragon
1 Tbl Dijon mustard
Juice of 3 lemons
¾ cup olive oil
Salt and Pepper to taste

In a small food processor, mash up everything except the oil until smooth. With the motor running, drizzle in oil until combined.

Flatbread Pizza

Again, this is a method I use a lot. You could make your own dough, but who has the time?! Flat Out Flatbread makes the perfect crust and it’s slightly healthier than regular pizza dough. You can pretty much top it with anything, so show your creativity and play with your food!

Preheat oven to 400. On a baking sheet, place flatbread and drizzle with olive oil. Flip it over and mush it around to get off excess oil, and then flip it again. Light salt and bake for roughly 7 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool. This crisps it up. Top it with your choice of goodies, then back in the oven it goes until cheese is ooey, gooey delish.

Pesto
Grilled Zucchini and Eggplant
Sun-dried tomatoes (oil packed)
Oil cured olives
Red onion, sliced
Goat cheese

Top with arugula tossed in Lemon Herb Vinaigrette. There is no picture. J, my Valentine and photographer, was talking on the camera...I mean phone...and we wuz hungry! But trust me, it was real purty like.

Returning to the scene of the crime! Very attractive, no?