Revisiting my first video post

Vintage (and nasty lookin') Improvised Chef.

So here is how I did it.

Vietnamese Frittata

2 eggs

yo' left over rice noodles

4 green onions, chopped into 1/2" slices

1 tsp wasabi paste

salt and pepper

In a large bowl, beat eggs and wasabi paste together.  Add onions and noodles.  Combine ingredients well.  Heat 1 Tbl olive oil in a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.  Add noodle mixture and mush around until flat.  Yes...that is the technical term.  Mush it.  Cook for about 4 minutes until brown.  Carefully flip frittata (or grab another skillet of roughly the same size and turn out frittata).  Cook for an additional 2 minutes.  Serve with spinach tossed with a dressing of 2 parts hoisin sauce to one part red wine vinegar.

Please forgive my appearance.  It has been my last week of summer vacation, and I refused to shave.  Plus, how hot do you look after traveling for 18 hours?

Food for the Road Weary

So here is how I did it.

Vietnamese Frittata

2 eggs

yo' left over rice noodles

4 green onions, chopped into 1/2" slices

1 tsp wasabi paste

salt and pepper

In a large bowl, beat eggs and wasabi paste together.  Add onions and noodles.  Combine ingredients well.  Heat 1 Tbl olive oil in a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.  Add noodle mixture and mush around until flat.  Yes...that is the technical term.  Mush it.  Cook for about 4 minutes until brown.  Carefully flip frittata (or grab another skillet of roughly the same size and turn out frittata).  Cook for an additional 2 minutes.  Serve with spinach tossed with a dressing of 2 parts hoisin sauce to one part red wine vinegar.

Please forgive my appearance.  It has been my last week of summer vacation, and I refused to shave.  Plus, how hot do you look after traveling for 18 hours?

The Waxman Challenge

Last night was the premiere of a new show called Master Chef.

The conceit is simple:  home cooks strut their stuff for a shot at $250,000 and a book deal while dealing with the snarky critiques of Gordon Ramsey and a couple of highly respectable, yet terribly egocentric, guest judges.  I am totally hooked, and I am wondering why I am not on it.

During last night's episode, I actually was quite tearful.  Here were a group of stay at home moms, software programmers, and everyday Joe's risking national ridicule all because each share a common passion: food.  They shared their "signature dishes," prepared with varying degrees of success and finesse all with the hopes of taking one step closer to winning the coveted prize.

Of course, I was inspired.

Flashback to Barbuto.  J and I were having our perfect New York al fresco dining moment:  I was desperately trying to figure out how to snap a photo with Obi Wan KaWaxman, and J was attempting to fashion a tranquilizer dart out of a bottle of Pelegrino and some chili peppers to keep me from bum rushing the man to get a hug.  And then the chicken came.

This was no ordinary chicken.  Succulent, juicy, and filled with a verdant freshness that made you understand that this man had been touched by God...or had spent some serious quality time figuring out how to cook barnyard foul.

So...inspired by the Zen-like Grill Master and the hopeful everyday cooks on a reality show, here is my interpretation of Waxman's Herb Chicken

Herb Chicken a la Duff a la Waxman

1 4lb chicken
1 yellow onion, quartered
1 lemon, quartered

For the Slatherin' Goodness

3 garlic cloves
4 anchovy filets
1 Tbl capers
1 tsp fresh thyme
2 Tbl fresh parsley
2 Tbl fresh basil
zest and juice of 1 lemon
1/4 cup olive oil
salt 'n pepper

Preheat oven to 400.  Combine all of the Slatherin' Goodness ingredients in your trusty mini food processor.  Whir away until it becomes a green, fragrant pool of love.

Place chicken breast side up in a cast iron skillet.  Stuff cavity with onion and lemon.  Now slather that chicky with the Slatherin' Goodness, making sure you get underneath the skin as well as covering the entire bird.  Cover with foil and roast for 50 minutes.  Remove foil and cook for an additional ten minutes to crisp up that bird.

Allow to rest for a bit before carving.  Picture yourself sitting outside in the Meat Packing District with your Valentine and enjoy.

The carnage.

Kabob: Revisited

Some plastic wrap company keeps telling me that I throw away over $500 worth of food a year.

NO MORE!

What's is the fridge:  left over kabobs, grilled eggplant, homemade pesto, arugula, grilled chicken breast.

A simple yet, delicious solution:  Grilled Chicken and Veggies on Ciabatta with Pesto Mayonnaise.  Feelin' Fancy is great, but sometimes a good sandwich does the trick.

Dinner: Improvised - Help the Cootie Laden

Ever have a friend who is havin' a bad week, and you're not quite sure what to do to cheer them up?

A good friend of mine has Cooties.  It's actually kind of serious, terribly annoying, and, sorry Tugar, not very pretty to look at.  Couple this affliction with the swamp-like summer heat of Memphis, and you have one unhappy camper on your hands.

Mission:  provide comfort (or at least distraction) through food using what I have in my kitchen and bring a smile to a friend's face.

What's in the fridge:  a whole chicken, spinach, red cabbage, some tired turnips, carrots.

Cootie Boo's fave is Thanksgiving food, and I just saw the movie Salt.  Why not brine the chicken?!

Spice Brined Chicken

I usually brine a turkey for Thanksgiving, but I have used this method with chicken or pork throughout the year.  It's time consuming, but so worth the effort.  It gives the meat an incredible spicy flavor, and keeps it moist and juicy.  I tend to raid my spices and throw in what sounds good at the moment;  just stick to your earthier spices.

1 4 lb. chicken

For the brine

1 medium yellow onion, unpeeled and quartered
1 head of garlic, slice in half
2 turnips, cut into thirds
2 carrots, cut into thirds
1 2" piece of ginger, sliced
1 1/2 cups kosher salt
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup maple syrup
3 bay leaves
2 cinnamon sticks
1 Tbl whole black peppercorns
1 1/2 tsp cumin
1 tsp cayenne pepper
3 cups water

In a large stock pot, combine ingredients and bring to a boil.  (I like to give the mixture a good stir to dissolve the salt and sugar a bit before turning on the heat, otherwise you will have some crustiness on the bottom of your pot that is a bee-otch to get off.)  Let the brine cool completely.

Once the brine is at room temperature, place your chicken breast side down in the brine and add enough water to cover.  Cover and put it in the fridge for six hours.

Preheat oven to 400.  Remove bird from brine and rinse thoroughly under cold water.  Pat dry and place in a cast iron skillet.  Here is where you can play around.  I make a butter mixture to rub over the little chicky with a half a stick of butter, cumin, cayenne, orange zest, and pepper.  Again, play with whatever you think sounds tasty.  Slather the bird with the butter, under and over the skin.  Shove an onion in the cavity with maybe some citrus and fresh herbs.  Cover with foil and roast for 45 minutes.  Remove foil and roast for an additional 20-25 minutes uncovered to brown that sucker. 

Let that baby rest for 10 minutes and carve.

Sauteed Red Cabbage and Spinach

The balsamic make this side tangy and slightly sweet, and it looks kind of like Christmas with the bright red and green.

1/4 head of red cabbage, shredded
1/2 yellow onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
5 oz baby spinach
2 Tbl balsamic vinegar
2 Tbl olive oil
salt/pepper to taste

In a saute pan, heat oil over medium heat.  Add sliced onions and cook for 5 minutes.  Add cabbage and saute until it begins to wilt, about 7 minutes.  Add garlic and vinegar, and cook until vinegar reduces by half.  At the last minute, add in spinach and stir it around until just wilted.  Salt and pepper to taste.  Serve immediately.


I am not a dessert man, but what sort of Thanksgiving-ish dinner is complete without a sweet bite?!  I made a Rhubarb Tart with Orange Glaze (thank you, defunct Gourmet magazine...we miss you!) and I added some fresh figs I had picked up at the Memphis Farmer's Market.  A fantastic dessert that was super easy to make!

Dinner: Improvised

I have a serious problem when I go to the grocery store.

Very rarely do I go the store with something specific to buy. Sure, sure...there is the odd occasion that I need dog food or ye olde TP. But, usually I stroll into the local Schnuck's without a list, roaming the aisles and loading up my cart with whatever looks tasty to me at the moment. As a result, I tend to overspend and end up throwing away unused ingredients. But, I also have a pantry full of the most random items, impulsively picked up on my adventures in grocery shopping.

Mission: Revitalize some tired, old ingredients in the fridge that are on the edge of usefulness and make something tasty.

What's in the fridge: bag of turnip greens, a couple of baby eggplant, some ginger that has about two days left, salmon, a couple of tired Ripley tomatoes, a lime.

Here is what I came up with.

Grilled Salmon with Coconut Curry Sauce.

2 6 oz. salmon fillets
2 Tbl olive oil
1/2 yellow onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 Tbl. fresh ginger, chopped
1 1/2 tsp curry powder
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp turmeric
2 Ripley tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 can of coconut milk (just the creamy solids)
10 basil leaves, chopped
zest and juice of 1 lime

For the sauce, heat a skillet over medium heat. Heat oil and add curry, turmeric, and coriander. Cook for one minute. Add onions. Toss to coat and cook until tender (about five minutes). Toss in the tomatoes and cook until they start to break down. Reduce heat and stir in coconut milk solids. After about a minute, take of heat and set aside.

Heat grill pan over medium high heat. While pan is heating, drizzle salmon fillets with olive oil and season with salt, pepper, cumin, and coriander. Place fillets seasoned side down and grill for about 7 minutes. Flip fillets and grill an additional 4-5 minutes.

As the salmon finishes, return sauce to a low heat and add basil, juice and zest. Serve over the grilled salmon.

Wilted Turnip Greens and Baby Eggplant

1 bag of washed turnip greens
1 yellow onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
5 baby eggplant
juice of 1 lime
2 Tbl olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. Add onions and cook until tender. While onions are cooking, remove the tops off eggplant and cut into quarters by slicing lengthwise. Cube the eggplant and add to onions. Cook for 5 minutes, until the eggplant begins to soften by still maintains its shape. Add garlic and cook for one minute. Slowly add greens, turning with tongs to speed up the wilting process. Once all of the greens are in the pan, add lime juice and toss to combine. Salt and pepper to taste.

I had left overs of both the sauce and the greens. Combining the two made a great little lunch!

Barbuto Redux

I'm pretty much a geek who goes completely mental when I am in the presence of a "star". Historically, when the occasion arises that I am near someone who is remotely famous, something in my brain transforms me into a complete blathering idiot who will undoubtedly say, and do, something really stupid. For example, I was fortunate enough to be working a benefit for a young, up and coming idealist running for the Illinois senate. His name was Barack Obama. I was introduced to him, shook his hand, and declared, "Your hands are really soft." Sigh. I wish this was not true of myself, but, alas, 'tis my burden.

A few weeks ago, I was in New York for the opening of J's show, Sister Myotis' Bible Camp. It had been quite some time since I was in the Big Apple, and I forgot how celeb sightings are rather common place. Look! There's J Lo and Marc at the Puerto Rico Day parade. No problem. It's Kristin Chenowith! She's so tiny, but nothing was said. There is Bobby Moynihan from SNL...several times...I guess he lives in the neighborhood of our sublet. After the third sighting, a simple, "I like your work" and all is fine.

Then, on J's day off, we hit the Village. Determined to find the best New York late afternoon lunch experience, we wander. And wander. And get a little cranky with each other. And we wandered up to the Meat Packing district. "Look," J said. "There's Barbuto! That's...oh, what's his name...Santa Claus...from Top Chef Masters..."

"Jonathan Waxman?! The Cooking Jedi?! Let's go!"

There were about four others in the restaurant and we get a table outside. There is sparkling water, olives, and a delightful menu at what was to be my first celebrity chef restaurant experience. J ordered the best roasted chicken I have ever tasted. I chose a spicy steak salad, and we shared roasted fingerling potatoes and sauteed greens. Conversation was witty, and we looked cute.

And then I looked to my left.

Sitting blithely at a table with two of his sous chefs...was HIM. Obi Wan Kawaxman in the flesh. I start to vibrate. "I want a picture."

"No. You will not take a picture."

"But I want one."

"No," J replied calmly, using a tone one usually reserves for the criminally insane.

"But..."

"No."

I enjoyed the rest of my salad and picked at J's chicken carcass silently with a steady and focused eye on the table two to my left...waiting for that moment when The Waxman would notice the complete bliss with which I was savoring his food and he would politely excuse himself from his daily meeting, come over to our table, and state, "You know how to appreciate good food! Come. Work with me. Let me teach you what I know, young paduan."

But, no.

There was a brief moment when J used the facilities and I thought about bribing the server into finagling a photo with the man, but J peed with unusual speed that day so no such arrangement was agreed upon. The only thing that remained was a full belly, a beautiful day in NYC, and a wonderful memory with my valentine.

What follows is my attempt to recreate the dish created by a man who is filled with the Culinary Force. While it's not quite as accurate as what I enjoyed (truthfully, I don't remember what exactly was in the salad...The Waxman channeled a Vulcan and erased my memory), what I improvised is pretty darn tasty with a nice heat that doesn't finish too overwhelmingly. Perfect for a summer night. Be sure to soak the peppers or your brain may explode. Unless you're into that kind of thing

Spicy Steak Salad

1 pound flank steak

2 tsp ground cumin

2 tsp ground coriander

salt

ground pepper

5 oz arugula

1/2 cup chopped parsley

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

1/4 red onion, thinly sliced

2 jalapenos (I don't know how to do that little n-yeah thing)

shaved pecorino to taste (I'm a cheese lover and it don't take much)

Spicy vinaigrette (recipe follows...I've always wanted to write that)

Preheat a grill pan over high heat. In a bowl, combine cumin, coriander, salt, and pepper to create a delicious spice rub. Drizzle steak with olive oil and sprinkle half the rub on your meat. Rub your meat. Flip that bad lad over and do the same. Once that pan is hot, slap your meat onto it and don't touch it for 7 minutes. While it's cooking, drizzle with oil, sprinkle with the rub, and rub your meat once again. I know it seems early but it's okay. You love your meat. At 7 minutes, flip it over and let it cook for another 5 minutes. Don't touch the meat. This should get you to a great medium rare. Remove from heat and tent with foil, allowing it to rest.

Once you have the steak on the grill, slice jalapenos in rounds, pushing out seeds. Place peppers and onions into a shallow bowl of cold water to take the edge off. While meat is resting, drain pepper and onions and combine with arugula, parsley, cilantro, and cheese. Dress salad with half of the vinaigrette. Arrange salad on plate. After about 5 minutes, thinly slice meat against the grain and serve on top of the greens with roasted potatoes. Enjoy.

Spicy Vinaigrette

2 garlic cloves
zest and juice of 1 lime
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 Tbl Dijon mustard
3/4 cup olive oil
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
just shy of 1 tsp of cayenne pepper
1 tsp pomegranate molasses
2 tsp fresh cilantro, chopped
pinch salt

In a small food processor, combine all ingredients except olive oil until garlic and cilantro has been good and mashed up. With the motor running, slowly add oil. Spicy and delish!

Roasted Potatoes

The Waxman used fingerling potatoes, however my grocery store did not have them this evening (it is Memphis after all). Pearl Yukon Gold potatoes sliced in half worked just as well.

Taters

Olive oil

Salt

Pepper

Preheat oven to 400. On a baking sheet, line up those spuds (I used about 5 taters per person)
drizzle with oil, salt, and pepper. Give 'em a good toss and pop in the oven for about 30 minutes.

NOTE: I took pictures of this glorious meal, however I cannot figure out how to turn off my flash so every thing looked like culinary mug shots. Will try to get a grip on the photo elements as I go along.

Food is not Feed

As an improviser, I never had any trouble starting a scene. I would take a moment, establish an activity, and then jump into the abyss allowing the magic of possibilities to wash over me. I would simply follow my instincts, and, when I would get stuck, I would simply repeat the last idea and explore.

Now, sitting in front of my computer, I'm stuck.

Listen to your instincts. Repeat idea. Explore.

Food is not feed. A college professor of mine, the amazing Dwight Conquergood, uttered this phrase in a class entitled "Performance in Everyday Life" and it has stayed with me throughout the years. To many, food is merely a necessity, something to be consumed to keep you going. They shovel it in without regard to its composition, its emotional value, its story. Food is an expression of creativity, personal history, culture, psychology, and life.

Most of my happiest moments have involved food. Making Betty Crocker's meatloaf with my mother as a kid (my first dish), my first grown up birthday party feasting on fondue at Cafe Gejas in Chicago sipping red wine while being serenaded by classical Spanish guitar, dining on a football sized pear and a fresh baguette in front of Notre Dame in between performances of Twelfth Night in Paris, the spontaneous dinner parties and porch sittings in Memphis, TN. There is something about food that, like music, takes you back to a specific time and place allowing you to relive a moment while creating new memories. Food is meant to be celebrated, experienced, and shared.

Food is not feed.

In this blog, I plan on sharing recipes, stories, photos, and all things food.